Tzertzeles is a portal to a family-run village kafeneio-mezedopoleio

Giorgos, Thomas, Marina and Dimitris at Tzertzeles.

Behind a porch lined with fairy lights on a street in Thessaloniki’s Kato Toumpa neighbourhood, where a leaning olive tree seems to have perched itself for a rest, is a portal to a village hangout where regulars swing by for the company (and a tsipouro) mid-way through the afternoon.

Thomas from Katerini and his family opened this ‘contemporary’ kafeneio-mezedopoleio (coffee shop that specialises in small plates and mezedes from the kitchen and grill, essentially) in 2019 after running a liquor store beforehand. Together with his wife Marina, his sons Dimitris and Giorgos, as well as Alexis and Elena, Thomas and his family have re-created a kafeneio that really does transport you to the village from the moment you step into it.

Everything from the rustic and honest feel, to the elaborately warm welcome and curious conversation that you rarely find in cities, to the fact that the alcohol flows freely here, makes Tzertzeles a gem, a portal and a time-capsule in one. Although it sounds like one, saying that couldn’t be any less of a cliche here. Before I even walk through the door, Dimitris is calling me in like I’ve known him for years. I’m introduced to the whole family and, later, a regular, Kyrio Stavro, when he stops by for a tsipouro. Thomas pours me wine from his village near Katerini and, before I know it, the entire kafeneio is in full-blown conversation and I’m a part of it. Kyria Marina is peeling potatoes on the table next to me. 

Giorgos lights up the grill, cooking a souvlakia that come from a local farmer, and a simple, rustic bifteki. The grill hisses and flames as he blasts the souvlakia with shots of ladolemono to baste them. Dimitris brings over the handcut fries, housemade tzatziki and tyrokafteri, with perfectly-seasoned pites and grilled bread to swoop it all up. It’s honest, rustic kafeneio food that beats most restaurants any day, because it’s just simple home cooking without the pretence, and with good ingredients from local suppliers and the village. Plus, it’s got the atmosphere and the conversation to go with it, and often the parties too – a banner on the back wall reads «γλέντι άνευ ορίων» (party without limits). 

Almost having forgotten that I’m in Thessaloniki and what I came to Toumpa for, I step outside to find that it’s turned dark. I still have no idea how long I was in there for.

📍 Kathigitou Nikolaou Andrioti 13, Thessaloniki 543 51, Greece